Can I have a venus flytrap at home and how it's care ?

I'm a first-time flytrap proprietor. I live in a little "condo" and travel professionally. You can have a flytrap at home, yet as others have said there are a few interesting points before getting one.

• Ensure it has enough light. As different answerers have stated, on the off chance that you don't have a window confronting a radiant course, don't live in a bright spot or don't plan to ever take your plant outside, you may need to purchase a develop light. You can get these at any home improvement shop. On the off chance that you have space for it, get a bigger cylinder bulb to develop light with the goal that your plant can have the most ideal light and most obvious opportunity with regards to endurance. What's more, on the off chance that you won't be home for significant stretches of time, purchase a light clock so your plant will get light while you're abandoned driving up your power bill. Try not to water the plant before placing it into daylight/light or it might consume.
• Make sure it has enough water. How often you water it will depend on the humidity in your apartment. Flytraps like to be moist but not wet if that makes sense. I don't know what your apartment is like so I won't make recommendations, but here is an excellent page describing a variety of ways to water one. Also, and this is very important: DO NOT use tap water! Distilled or reverse-osmosis water only. You can buy it by the gallon from the grocery for less than a dollar.
• Make sure it's in the right container. It doesn't need to be in a terrarium or under a "lid". If yours came in a flimsy, shallow, or small container, consider repotting it so that it can grow. I've read online that insulated pots made of a styrofoam-like material work well. The roots of the plant grow straight down, so a tall pot may be ideal. Personally, I'm going to use styrofoam cups with holes poked in the bottom.
• Make sure it's in the right dirt. Flytraps require a certain type of soil. If you are repotting, you can try to mix your own soil or buy a premixed bag. Here's a site that describes what you'll need to make your own dirt, or if you don't want to bother with that you can buy some premixed, usually for $10 or less.
• Feed it sometimes. Like most plants, flytraps get much of their energy from photosynthesis. But they supplement their diets with insects. And it's important that the insects be live, otherwise, the plant might not accept it (lack of movement may not trigger digestion). You can buy live bugs from pet stores or from any place that sells live bait. You may also be able to find and catch insects yourself. One plant will not need many bugs. Feed 1-2 traps at a time, and allow 1-2 weeks for those traps to digest and reopen or die off. In other words, you really shouldn't need to feed your plant more than 1-2 times per month. Don't overfeed your plant, and don't feed it anything other than insects (no hamburger meat, no baloney!).

Those are the nuts and bolts. Considering the "extras" that join claiming a flytrap, you might be spending somewhere in the range of $5 - $40 to begin, in addition to the expense of water and bugs on the off chance that you have to get them.

How do you take care of a Venus flytrap?

There are a couple of key factors that should be met all together for a Venus flytrap to remain alive, yet flourish. VFT's are local toward the southeast US where they develop in swamps and along stream beds. I develop mine outside all year in the SF Bay Area. They like acidic soil, a ton of light and mugginess, exceptionally clean water, and to become outside. 

Soil: I develop the entirety of mine in a 50:50 peat greenery/perlite blend. I know different producers who have accomplishments with unadulterated peat greenery, however, I like the air circulation that perlite gives. The dirt should be acidic and ready to hold dampness. They'll do best if repotted (during torpidity) like clockwork, however, they can go longer without repotting. 

Water: VFT's can't dry out, on the off chance that they do they will kick the bucket. I utilize the plate strategy for the vast majority of mine where I let them sit in 1–2″ of water and will ordinarily release the plate dry or practically dry before I water once more. This permits the pot to remain wet/damp consistently, yet in addition, permits the roots to get oxygen. It's significant that both the water and soil below altogether Dissolved Solids (TDS). The roots are exceptionally touchy and the plant will kick the bucket if there's a lot of minerals in the water. My water quality is poor so I use separated water for every one of my plants. 

Light: VFTs like a great deal of light. They ought to be developed in full sun and don't care for a ton of shade. A few plants will begin to get red shading in a great deal of light, yet not all. 

Temperature: I've become VFT's in temperatures running from 28 to 110 F without an issue. They appear to develop best when it's during the 80s or 90s, however well during normally happening changes in temperature. 

Stickiness: VFT's favor moistness and will develop best in a high dampness condition, however, it's a bit much. My miniaturized scale atmosphere is low in moistness and they develop fine, however, anything you can do to keep the general condition high in dampness will assist the plants with thriving. 

Preparation/Feeding: I don't take care of or treat my VFT's. Over-treatment will slaughter a plant and it's anything but difficult to over-prepare since the roots are so touchy. A few producers will take care of bugs to their plants which you can do, however when developed outside they get food fine and dandy all alone. 

VFT's ought to be green outside in a calm situation. They need a normally happening torpidity period so as to remain alive long haul. There are a few people who can develop their plants on a windowsill or in a terrarium effectively for a brief period, yet they will in the long beyond words a torpidity period. While torpid throughout the winter months (December through March in my atmosphere) they will kick the bucket back to a bulb and the greater part of the snares will turn earthy colored. This is totally typical and they will regrow again in the spring. Keep them sodden, however not overflowed. They can endure a light freeze with no issue, however, for a profound freeze, they made need some assurance. 

The following are photos of a portion of my plants. Most I develop separately in pots sitting in the plate, however, I set up a grower loaded with VFTs this past winter and they're flourishing.